Quobba Station

After an early breakfast we made our way to the Carnarvon Growers Market with the expectation to see a lot of fruit and veg but, as with most markets in tourist area's, there were lots of stalls selling dust collectors and other girly things and only 4 stalls with fruit and veg. However, those 4 had very nice stuff at great prices. We even found banana's at $6 a kilo.

After the shopping we went back to the caravan park, hitched up, and left Carnarvon by 9:30. About 30km north of Carnarvon we left the main road and took the turnoff to Quobba. After 50km we reached the end of the bitumen and a further 8km along the dirt road we arrived at Quobba Station.

The camp sites are well spread out with at least 100mt between us an the next site. Our site is less than 100mt away from the Indian Ocean and the noise from the waves pounding the rocks and beach is quite loud - but there is no other noise out here. The station homestead is about 200mt away from us. We have a powered site but the station generator only runs 2hrs int he morning, 2hrs at lunch and 5 hrs at night. Power is also limited, so we can't use the microwave or kettle.

Although we have a tap on our site, it's only saline bore water which we can't use for drinking or cooking. There is no phone or TV reception but we can get ABC radio on the AM band. The dirt road that leads further north from the homestead is frequented by numerous travellers but there is no camping here until one gets to Ganarloo station.

Our first walk down to the beach, just in front of the caravan, immediately impressed us with the huge ocean swell coming in onto the beach and rocks. The shoreline is fairly steep around here so the swell rises up into a huge wave and then smashes down on whatever gets in it's way. We have been warned that on every rock fishing spot in this area people have lost their live. The very first, large sign when we reached the ocean (on the road) said "King Waves Kill".

We took the car for a bit of exploring along the coast line and checked out the famous Blow Holes, a spot where a rock overhang has been washed out beneath to form a cavity which has a 500mm diameter round hole in the top. As the big swell rolls in and covers the cavity entrance the air inside escapes though this hole at the top with an enormous amount of pressure and the matching noise. The escaping air contains small water droplets which gives it the appearance of steam. After the air is through the hole and water fills the cavity it then also escapes causing an enormous water fountain which reaches over 20mt into the air and can be seen a couple of kilometres away.

After watching this spectacular display of nature's raw and brute force for a while we checked out the nearby campground which was stacked full, due to the $5 per night price tag.

There are some nice fishing beaches along here but there is also a Fish Habitat Protection Area (FHPA) where fishing is forbidden. We saw someone catch an Estuary Cod and I'm told this place is full of all fish species.

A couple of fellows staying at the the homestead have already bagged 22 Spanish Mackrel, all fished from the shore by spinning a metal lure at a great rate of knots.

Alexander and I went to a fishing spot called High Rock - probably the most spectacular fishing spot I have seen in my life. Perched on steep cliff some 20mt above the water's surface with very, very deep water. There is also a plaque reminding us that 3 people have died fishing this particular spot.

We pulled in at another spot and just admired the force of the incoming swell which today is reported as 2mt high. With the steep shore line the 2mt swell doesn't break but rises up out of nowhere when reaches the shore and changes the water level by 10-15mt in many areas. It is certainly impressive to look at an area which 10mt above the water one moment and totally swamped the next. Falling into this boiling broth of saltwater would be very ugly indeed.

Some of the fishermen today told me that, although they have caught Mackrel, they haven't landed a single one due to sharks taking their catch before they can land it. The place certainly exhibits many facets of mother nature's raw power.

Tonight while I'm sitting in the caravan enjoying the peaceful environment, the sound of the enormous swell crashing into the shore appears to be very loud - and there is no wind to speak off. I wonder what this place is like when a howling gail gets behind that big swell or when a cyclone really whips up the sea.

Here is the link to today's travel map.